GOING THE GWALIOR WAY

Gwalior is often considered the poor cousin when compared to the likes of Shimla, Manali, Nainital. At times, it is not even in the consideration set. But if you dig forts, palaces and ancient love stories, Gwalior should be high on your priority list. More so, if you are running out of weekend getaway ideas.

Last month, I spent a weekend at Gwalior. Needless to say, a weekend is not sufficient for a place like Gwalior. Me and my friend were dead tired and there was still so much left to see. On the contrary, if you are up for a stamina crunching trip, even a weekend might suffice.

Here is a quick snippet on what to expect on a Gwalior trip.

Stay

Gwalior doesn't have many hotels; at least my internet search at the time didn't say so. However, it has a few budget hotels like Hotel Landmark, Hotel Grace and a few two star hotels. On the other hand, if you don’t mind spending some money don’t look beyond Deo Bagh, a Neemrana Hotel. It’s an idyllic setting to relax and to some extent a destination in itself.

Originally a summer palace of the ruling dynasty, this hotel has a range of rooms each overlooking a lush green lawn and two quaint 17^th century temples on the horizon. All the rooms have been named after the royal family members like Jayaji Villas, Aruna Villas, Rohini Raja Mahal, Dhruv Villas etc. Read more about them here http://deobagh.neemranahotels.com/. Ironically, not a single auto wallah at the railway station knew anything about the hotel.

See

If you are a sightseeing kind of person, there is a plenty waiting for you. Keep a day aside for supposedly the largest of its kind - Gwalior Fort, the outer boundary of which stretches as far as 3.5 km. Also come prepared for a long trek, as the autos are not allowed to enter the fort premises. 

Inside the fort are Gujari Mahal, an Archeological Musuem, Man Mandir Palace, Saas Bahu Temple, Teli ka Mandir, Jahangiri Mahal, Karan Mahal, Shahjahan Mahal, Jauhar Kund, Suraj Kund, a Gurudwara, a chapel and even more.

If you have to choose between the monuments due to paucity of time, then settle down for the Man Mandir Palace and the Saas Bahu Temple. Both of them are exquisite to look at and the best that the fort has to offer in terms of architecture.

Just like the history of the city, Gwalior architecture is an interesting mix of mughal, deccan and hindu designs. You will be able to see glimpses of this everywhere you go.

The other two must visit places in the city are the Jai Vilas, erstwhile palace of the Scindihias and Tansen Ka Maqbara. While the former is standing there in all its glory, the Tansen’s tomb could have been better maintained. The fact that the entry to the Maqbara is free and also that it is in a bustling market area has transformed the place. At best it is comparable to a local park where people feel free to come and sleep. Despite the indifference of the government, Tansen’s resting place manages to give its visitors what they come seeking – peace. In fact, both I and my friend were anxious about spending so less time at such a beautiful place. Given a choice, we would have happily spent the entire day dreaming there.

On the other hand, the pristine white Jai Vilas that has often been shown as the home of heroes and heroines in films of the 80’s has now been turned into a museum. The rooms of the palace are still laid out as they were used once upon a time, each of them with a unique colour scheme and a magnificent story to tell. Some parts of the palace continue to be used by the royal family even today.

Do give the Kala Vittika and the Light and Sound Show a miss. The Kala Vittika has absolutely nothing inside and the Light and Sound Show is way too outdated with almost no lighting and graphics. In fact, those who have seen the one at Delhi Old Fort will not even call it a Light and Sound Show.

Eat                                                                                                            

Sorry to say food lovers, there is not much to eat here. The food at the Deo Bagh was average, and beyond that we couldn't find anything. There are few dhabas lined up near the railway station that dish up spicy stuff. But they can hardly be called sumptuous. Also it will be best to stick to vegetarian food, as majority of the people at Gwalior seem to be vegetarian.

 Feel

Gwalior is full of interesting stories. The fort itself was built by Raja Surya Sen when sage Gwalipa cured him of leprosy. Again Raja Man Singh fell in love with a tribal girl named Gurjari whom he named Mrignayani. It is said that Mrignayani’s love for her husband was such that even Emperor Akbar couldn't do anything. After conquering the Gwalior Fort, when he took her to his Agra harem she continued to love her husband even after many days and refused to comply. Seeing her dedication for her love, the emperor reunited her with Raja Man Singh.

So, the next time someone says there is not much to see or do you know what your answer should be.

WHAT DELHI HIDES IN IT'S HEART

Ever fascinated with ancient monuments, when I heard about this place I was very excited. I immediately googled about it and read up whatever was available. Strangely, even though it is in the heart of the city, not many people know about Ugrasen or Agrasen Ki Baoli.

Again, there is no general consensus as to who built this historical stepwell. The popular belief however, holds that it was built by the Raja Agrasen of the agarwal community in the pre Lodhi period to preserve water.

In December 2012, I had visited another step well, Anangtal Baoli, located in Mehrauli. It had been a memorable trip with two of my friends. Something I had wanted to repeat soon but hadn't got the chance.

Baavris at Baoli

Then one fine day, me and a friend, who is equally gung ho about quaint places, eagerly set off for the Ugrasen Ki Baoli. The place is located inside a tiny lane called Hailey lane on Hailey Road in CP. The fact that it can be easily reached by an auto or by the metro made us too happy. For your information, the closest metro station is Barakhamba or Rajiv Chowk.

Quite interestingly, the road that leads to the Baoli has graffiti art all over. It’s a stark contrast to what awaits a visitor inside. The entrance to the Baoli is very unassuming and low key, with a very small courtyard leading in. See more pictures of the Baoli here.

When we entered the place, we met the usual crowd that greets you at all Delhi Heritage sites. College kids, photographers, love birds and a few elderly people who visit the place to crib about the rest of the visitors.

The moment we reached the Baoli, I went ahead on my snap happy spree and my friend became my muse for the day. The light however, was not very favourable. The deeper we went into the well, the worse the pictures turned out.

Simplicity at its best

It is a relatively simple structure, consisting of a single flight of 103 steps that culminate in a now dry water tank. The stone walls of the well are stark yet beautiful, forming a 60 x 15 meter rectangle made up of a series of superimposed arcades.

As you go down the steps, the silence deepens. The air too becomes putrid with the smell of bat shit, making one wonder what we are doing to preserve such places. However, all is not lost. Unlike other places, this Baoli did have some caretakers who if nothing else saw to it that people don’t enter the restricted areas.

Walkways interrupt the walls at three levels, allowing the visitor to explore various alcoves and rooms. Today, the more hazardous of these rooms are secured with gates. One can easily see the craftsmanship and the intricate work on the ceiling of the dome. It’s a pity however, that most of it is in a poor condition.

Many years ago, this Baoli must have been a solace for people suffering because of the summer heat. There used to be water in the Baoli till as recently as 2001. Lovers threw coins to wish for something, boys threw pebbles and the birds alighted for cool dip.

As with all relics, the silence was all encompassing making it hard to believe that this place is so close to the commercial capital of Delhi. The only giveaway is the skyscraper which outlines the horizon seen from the Baoli.

While people have deserted this place to a great extent, the wise have taken abode. Every nook and cranny of the Baoli has been taken over by the pigeons. Now it is their world.

If you ever visit the Baoli, do look out for a mosque nearby. Unfortunately, I couldn’t make the time to visit this place. Instead, me and my friend preferred to walk down the Hailey Road which itself is quite a nice place for a walk.

A TRIP FOR THE TASTE BUDS

Those who have been thinking of visiting Karims in Old Delhi, there is another option to try out. Many of you might already be aware of it. The eaterie referred to here Al Jawahar. It is located in the same lane as Karims, opposite Jama Masjid and is much more pocket friendly.

I happened to be in Old Delhi last week and couldn't return without visiting Al Jawahar. I strongly recommend the vegetarians to stay away from the place. As the way to the restaurant is lined with not so appetizing sights of non veg food.

The restaurant has three floors, the 2nd floor of which has been marked for families. I and my friends decided to settle in the 2nd floor. They have all the regular Mughlai food from Chicken Jahangiri to Mutton Roganjosh from Sheermaal to Shami Kebabs.

Not much can be said about the ambience and the presentation. The crockery looked old and dirty, the paper napkins were of the poorest quality possible. However, the food more than compensated for the lack of everything else. We ordered Shami Kebabs, Chicken Qorma, Palak Gosht and Roomali Rotis. The portions were good. Ordering half plate makes sense as it allows you to try two dishes in the price of one full plate. They also served complimentary salad.

Udaipur Unmatched

It’s been sometime since I have written anything. It’s pretty late to even say that I was on vacation, since I have been back long ago. Anyways, something to fill the void of the past days…

“Chali jo jhoomne galiyon
Mein uss rasiya ke
Bhool gayi main bawri
Raah apni
Uske chal mein”

Enchanting. Mesmerizing. Impish. Mysterious. Proud Udaipur.
Pick up a paintbrush. Colour its many-hued characters. Elephants, camels, peacocks, horses, donkeys, deers, lovely lakes, palaces and people. Experience and embrace!

Carry your bucks: The moment you step into its heart, the tangerine coated Udaipur cunningly draws at your purse strings, beguiles you with its many attractions. You hesitate; count your precious money and then part with it happily, be it for the lip-smacking food, street shopping, sight-seeing or the palatial hotels. They are worth every penny.

Paint the town: The city breathes of blues and reds and yellows... And hangs on every shop window. It will muddle your head with miniatures, abstracts, madhubanis, etc. In case you have never ever painted all your life, let Udaipur hold your hands and help you make your own miniature. Most shop that sell miniatures also teach you to make a miniature, all in 2 hours!

Ponder at Palaces: Every home in its land is grand, since every home is either a palace or a mahal or a haveli. Udaipur shows off swollen with pride, the abode of Maharana Pratap, City Palace. The City Palace Museum takes you to another era completely, as it is adorned with its treasures of Rajput armoury, King’s Throne, Queens’s bedroom covered in posters of child Krishna, many intricate palanquins, large vessels for cooking food for the royal feast, ancient miniatures and recent photographs of the members of the royal family and, so & so forth. Little away on the Pichola is the elusive Lake Palace, mischievously showing its tongue at you and laughing at your inability to reach it. Post terrorism attacks at the Taj, Jag Niwas or the Lake Palace is open only to the people who are staying there. Lucky if you can afford to stay at the Jag Niwas.
No matter how tired you might be feeling of the palace routine by now, Udaipur will still be dragging you to yet another palace. This one’s on top of a hill too - Sajjangarh. Undergoing renovation which it desperately needs, this hunting retreat has a spell-bounding location and the drive through the sanctuary is unparalleled. As you gaze at the orange minded sun setting against the bird’s eye view of Udaipur and wonder at the beauty of nature, the city gives a ‘I knew it smile’.

Laze at the lakes: Udaipur unleashes Pichola on you, the magical nymph in the full splendour of a chameleon. Disappointing at times because of the moss green carpet on one side of the lake and people still bathing openly at the banks. Captivating at other times, when you realize it’s all so real. Evenings it conspires & hypnotises you with its beautiful attire, dressed in nothing less than the stars of the heaven and the crystal lights of the surrounding palaces kissing it. Waste hours sitting by it. For once, you can forget the pen and papers. To borrow from Wordsworth “The music in my heart I bore, long after it was heard no more.” And just when you thought the magic is over there is Badi Lake or Tiger, the only natural lake in the city. Villagers claim tigers from the nearby hills still visit the lake for a drink at night. Clear and natural, it’s simply breathtaking. Also in the city’s armory is the Fateh Sagar Lake.

Still more...

Shilpgram: A crafts village with live performers and artisans. Must visit for those who love places with old world charm. Take your cameras along.

Nehru Park: An island park in the Fateh Sagar Lake, great place to relax especially if you love boating

Sahelion ki Bari: Or the Queen’s Garden complete with a fountain

Shopping: Beware of expensive leeches aka emporiums. They will trap you till you settle for a ‘bandhani saree’ you get at half its price at apna Lajpat Nagar. Udaipur will, however, entice you with wall hangings with a lot of detailing, interesting sarees, traditional juttis and sandals, fabrics of various kinds, wooden sculptures, earthen crockery and paintings. Also try the tailor shops that work at break-neck speed to create great fusion ensembles.

All said, Udaipur is steeped deep in romantic rajput culture even it wakes up slowly to urbanization. The magic of golden city, Udaipur will surely keep your heart captive.